November, 2006

Safety Saves Money

If you don’t have a training program, start one. You’ll decrease workman’s compensation claims, save money on downtime and increase the productivity of your work force.

By Gary Katz

When I started in construction back in the mid 1970s, my first boss handed me his worm-drive saw and told me to cut 100 foundation stakes. He didn’t spend a lot of time teaching me how to use the saw, though he did explain some about kickback:

“You ever use one of these?” he asked.

“No,” I said.

“Well, watch out for kickback,” he said. “It can cut your thumb right off—or somethin’ even more important.

I got the guard shimmed back so it’s a lot safer to use.”

Like most apprentice carpenters, I was intimidated by the more experienced guys on the crew, so I fell in step with the macho attitude about saw guards; I believed everyone when they said a saw was safer without the guard.

Nonsense. If your yard has an installed sales program—with carpenters working on job sites—or if your yard employees just occasionally cut boards to length, power-tool safety isn’t something you can ignore. Safe work habits don’t materialize from displaying posters. Like craftsmanship itself, safety must be taught.

In this article I cover three of the most dangerous tools on the job site and discuss safe work habits you can incorporate in your regular training program. If you don’t have a regular training program for your employees, start one today. Not only will a training program save on workman’s compensation claims, but you’ll save money on downtime, and you’ll increase the productivity of your work force. Believe me, there’s profit in safety.

Circular Saw Safety

Blade guards. There’s no reason to pin back a guard anymore. Blade guards are now engineered to retract whether you’re cutting material at 90º or at most angles.

Work stations. When cutting acute angles, like foundation stakes or sheets of plywood, set up a workstation. Workstations are a must for any repetitive job. They help guard against mishaps caused by repetitive exhaustion, they improve workmanship and they speed up productivity.

Power cords. Having a connection at the end of a short power cord is more than just a hassle; it’s an accident waiting to happen. Short cord hang-ups cause blade binding and kickback. Longer cords reduce tool-use stress and encourage cleaner, straighter cuts.

Proper cutting position. Circular saws are hand-held tools, so consider two things before making any cut: first, hold the tool firmly, preferably with both hands, and stand in a comfortable, well-balanced position. Support the material so that the fall-off doesn’t bind the blade. Resting lumber across one foot is a common job site technique and can be accomplished safely by holding the long end and allowing the shorter waste to fall clear after the cut, without pinching the kerf closed. Always be prepared for kickback.

The death grip.

Ripping 2x4 or 2x6 hand-held material on job sites is common. To prevent serious injury, never clamp your hand around the stock. If you clamp your hand to any workpiece, and kickback occurs, you can’t let go. Also, keep your thumb out from behind the saw kerf in case of kickback.

Sharp blades. Always use sharp blades. If a blade shows signs of being dull, replace it immediately. Sharp blades are more enjoyable to use and reduce injuries from kickback. Adjust the depth of cut so that the blade

penetrates through the workpiece by only 1/4 in.

Table Saw Safety

Saw stands. You can’t do good work without proper, waist-high saw support for stationary tools. Always use a portable table saw in a stand. The Bosch wheeled stand is practical and useful for many job sites, and provides some degree of right-hand support for cutting sheet material, as well some outfeed support.

Outfeed support. Aftermarket manufacturers, like Rousseau, offer folding stands that provide even more work support for cutting sheet material on the job site, especially outfeed support. While operating a stationary power tool, all effort must be focused on moving the material smoothly through the saw, not supporting the material, especially when the workpiece is about to clear the blade. 

Pushsticks. Nearly all table-saw accidents can be avoided by using a proper pushstick (not a stick with a notch cut in the end). Pushsticks increase control over large boards and protect your hands from the saw blade while cutting small pieces. Pushsticks enable straight, clean, precise rips. Never turn on a saw without a pushstick within reach.

Blades. Table-saw blades must be sharp, and they should have at minimum a positive 10º- hook angle so that passing a board through the saw requires minimal pressure. If you have to push a board hard while cutting on a table saw, something is dead wrong… and it could be you.

Riving knives. More than 95% of carpenters working on job sites do not use the guards supplied with their table saws (see Fine Homebuilding, July 2006). Portable table-saw guards interfere when making narrow rips, rabbets and dados, and they’re difficult to remove and replace. In addition, the plastic covers cloud with sawdust and are difficult to see through. Cutting without the guard in place is dangerous, yet most carpenters on job sites do it. At the very least, a portable table saw should be equipped with a riving knife to reduce the possibility of kickback. Many European saws come with riving knives as standard equipment.

Converting your table-saw guard to a riving knife is possible with several models manufactured today (see http:// www.GaryMKatz.com/ToolReviews/RivingKnife.htm). However, a few BIG words of warning: Any time you alter or change a product, you become responsible for any and all accidents caused by the tool or the conversion. For instance, if one of your employees is injured while using that tool, you’ll be liable—not the tool manufacturer. At the same time, if you or your employees are using a table saw without a guard, you’ve assumed all responsibility for any accidents that occur with that tool. Yes, table saws are one of the most dangerous tools on the job site and in the courtroom.

Miter Saw Safety

Saw stands.

As I mentioned, stationary power tools require waist-high stands. Period. And miter-saw stands must provide adequate support for long material. Roller stands are acceptable for remodeling and general carpentry crews, but for finish work, where long casing, baseboard and crown molding are cut, often to repetitive sizes, continuous extension wings offer superior support. Solid extension wings facilitate precise measurements, accurate cuts and repetitive stop systems.

Work Area. While operating a miter saw, table saw, or circular saw, the work area must be clear of all debris. That means constant attention toward clearing waste material and unnecessary tools from the working surfaces or the floor. Direct power cords around and away from stationary power tools so they are not under foot. The following fundamental cutting habits promote better craftsmanship and save valuable body parts:

• Don’t use your hand as a clamp. Using the “death grip” at a miter saw can result in lost fingers or hands. When you secure material at a miter saw, be sure to grip the tool or continuous extension wing more than the material. Besides, you can’t make precise cuts if your hand is a clamp (see next note).

• Keep your hand at the end of the fence or on the saw base (or extension wing). Position your free hand so that it’s pressed securely against the tool surface, then wrap your thumb over the material. Now your hand won’t move and you’ll have complete control over the material. Creep the measurement line toward the blade, making several small kerfs, until you’re right on the mark. (Fig. 10A & 10B, hand at fence.)

• Don’t move the material until the blade stops. Moving the material before the blade stops causes blade binding and kickback. Besides, moving the material prematurely can ruin a perfect miter. Remember, quality finish work—and working accident free—both require patience.